For several years now, I've been happy to maintain a website that is dedicated to helping dog owners better the health of their companion animals. Part of this territory includes fielding questions from readers who ask for a little more information. While there are many wonderful raw diet related FAQ's on the internet today, the questions below are actual questions from actual readers. If you have a question that does not appear on my own FAQ, please feel free to email your questions to me directly.

Q: What makes Bravo food better than other brands of raw food?

A: A lot of things! There are a few companies out there who do use quality ingredients. Bravo chooses *only* quality ingredients. Virtually all of their products (whole bones and ground foods) are naturally fed, hormone free and antibiotic free. All their beef and lamb stems from Australian and New Zealand hormone free, antibiotic free, grass fed animals and their chicken is from Murray's which is humanely raised, antibiotic free and hormone free. All of Bravo's food is USDA approved and fit for human consumption.  However, even more importantly in my opinion, is the fact that Bravo submits themselves to voluntary USDA inspection. This is a really big deal. By subjecting themselves to voluntary USDA inspection, this means that Bravo's processing of food must undergo the same strict standards that apply to human standards. What other animal food processing companies do that? Not many.  By following the USDA human standards for processing, one can ensure that the food being processed is not contaminated or cross contaminated, foods are being stored at proper temperatures and it's handled *safely* and cleanly. Quality control is a keynote for the folks who run Bravo and their goal is to produce the highest standard of biologically appropriate raw food for our companion animals. As a consumer, I only want my dogs to eat the very best that I can provide and that's why I choose Bravo for my dogs and my cat. As a retailer of Bravo foods, I only want to distribute the very best quality products to my clients which is why I only distribute Bravo foods.

Unlike some other raw foods on the market today, Bravo food is not a kitchen sink food. Each formulation (Bravo blends, Bravo basics and Bravo boneless) consists of single protein sources which means that you have more control over what your dog or cat is eating. By using single protein sources, you know exactly what your pet is eating for each meal and if for some reason your companion animal does not tolerate a protein source well, it's simple business to simply eliminate a particular protein from the diet. This cannot be done with kitchen sink types of preparations which include many different ingredients. And here's something else: Bravo will tell you exactly where their food comes from, how it is reared and how it is processed. Why? There just aren't any secrets at Bravo. When a company is proud of their food, they're happy to tell you anything you want to know about it. When a company is secretive, then raise your red flags! Bravo will provide you will full nutritionals, full toxicity reports, anything you'd like to know. Simply, they're proud of what they have to offer and they should be. You can't find a better quality of food.

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Q: Does my dog really need supplements? I thought raw food was supposed to contain everything my dog needs.

A: Raw food in a varied diet contains just about everything our dogs and cats need - the exception being omega 3 fatty acids which are found in grass fed animals (such as the beef and lamb products from Bravo) and raw fatty fish. The truth is that we really don't know how much omega 3 is essential to the diet. We do know that omega 3 fatty acids are highly beneficial and that you really can't overdo them in a natural diet. That being said, even if you are feeding a varied diet that contains raw fatty fish and grass fed animals, it's only prudent to supplement with omega 3 fatty acids. Omega 3 fatty acids will assist in the production of beneficial eicosanoids, they will help reduce inflammation and they do wonders for the skin and coat. My two favourite fish oils are Bravo's Wild Norwegian Salmon Oil (liquid) and Animal Essential Omega Fatty Acids (encapsulated). Vitamin E works synergistically with omega 3 fatty acids which is why many people also supplement concurrently with this vitamin.

Other than that, I view supplementation as a philosophy more than anything else. It's my personal belief that even though many people do not supplement at all in a raw diet, I feel strongly that both my dogs any myself benefit from certain types of supplementation. We all take anti-oxidants on a daily basis because it's a simple matter of life that our earth is not as clean as it should be and that our ozone is becoming depleted. We all take a green supplement because there's not denying the benefits of the micronutrients provided by these particular supplements. All of us take these supplements because I believe they give us a little added boost to help filled in the gaps left by our environment. My own dogs take Berte's Daily Blend with each meal as it contains a host of anti-oxidants and a little bit of kelp and alfalfa. Several times a week, my dogs also take Berte's Green Blend or Animal Essentials Organic Green Alternative for the superb micronutrients that both products provide.

There's no denying that nutritional supplements are available to support a wide variety of specific medical conditions and I do strongly recommend that if your dog does experience any specific ailments that you contact a good holistic veterinarian to help guide you with regards to their appropriate use. They really do provide excellent support.

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Q: What is the story with The Honest Kitchen?  I thought you were selling only REAL raw food?  Is The Honest Kitchen real raw food?

A: The Honest Kitchen is a dehydrated raw food.  If you look at the list of ingredients (all human grade, some organic), basically what they do is take all the food items and simply dehydrate them.  Is it raw food as we traditionally think of it?  No.  But the fact of the matter is that feeding raw food isn't for everybody.  Some people do not want to handle raw food, some people are concerned about perceived dangers and some people are highly geared towards convenience.

K9 Raw Diet strongly believes in educating the public so that we can all make our own decisions.  Regardless of what we choose to feed our dogs, we feel that each person needs to feel comfortable and confident when it comes to what goes into their pets' bowls.  While The Honest Kitchen is not raw food as we all know raw food, it is seriously the next best thing.  THK is not a processed food, the ingredients are phenomenal, it is AAFCO approved and there is absolutely no comparison with any canned food or kibble on the market.  THK is not a cooked food.

Any time somebody chooses to use The Honest Kitchen as one of the staples in the diet, K9 Raw Diet recommends using THK as a base food to which you can add in other foods from home (either cooked or raw) to increase the variety of proteins in the diet. Variety is so important when it comes to feeding our dogs and cats because each protein offers something a little different.  Not only is adding variety going to be great for your pet's health, but it's also going to stretch The Honest Kitchen food as well.

Even though we personally use Bravo products as the mainstay of the diet, we at K9 Raw Diet do use The Honest Kitchen for travel and for emergency food.  "Oops I forgot to defrost dinner!" counts as an emergency !!!

Q: We all know that raw meat contains destructive bacteria, that most chickens and eggs contain salmonella and that e. coli can kill some people. And what about listeria? How can you feed this to your dogs?

A: While it is true that raw meat of any type can include these microbes, what we need to understand is that our dogs’ digestive systems were designed to effectively deal with such bacteria. With very strong stomach acids and a short digestive tract, contaminates such as e. coli, listeria and salmonella pose no threat to the otherwise healthy dog. In over 20 years of experience, Dr. Pitcairn, in his book Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats (published in 1995) states that he has never seen an actual case of salmonella poisoning in the dog. Likewise, according to Dr. Billinghurst, he too has never witnessed a case in all of his thousands of patients who feed a raw diet.

Unfortunately, too often when a veterinarian hears that his client has been providing raw meat to his dog, sometimes symptoms are misdiagnosed as salmonella poisoning without actual proof. This is why it's so important that your personal veterinarian is familiar with raw feeding. When a veterinarian is knowledgeable in the study of evolutionary diets, she is more able to provide you with an unbiased assessment of your dog's symptomatology. That being said, it is my experience in over 12 years of raw feeding and after being in contact with literally thousands of other raw feeders that I have never come across a single case of salmonella or e.coli poisoning in dogs. However, I'm not asking you to simply take my word for it. As always, I encourage people to do their own research and feel comfortable with their own conclusions. For me, the issues of salmonella, e. coli and the like are, well, non-issues.

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Q: Okay, so you don't have a problem with bacteria in the food but honestly, how safe is raw food?  I mean, if the food is human grade then doesn't that mean that there *is* bacteria in the food?

A: YES!  Chances are extremely high that there is bacteria in the food.  Think about it this way: if you go down to Whole Foods or any other ultra premium supermarket, what are the chances that you're going to find raw chicken, fit for human consumption, completely free and clear of salmonella?  What ar the chances that opening up organic eggs from that same store will provide you with eggs with no bacteria?  The bacteria is there.  It's alive and it's present.  It exists in raw food.

However, it helps to remember that our dogs and cats evolved eating raw food - and not ultra premium food either.  Our dogs evolved eating all matter of dead and decayed raw food in the wild that is absolutely teeming with destructive bacteria.  How your pet handles the bacterial load is entirely dependent on your animal's individual health and in the vast majority of cases, your healthy pet will not have an issue with even the most tainted food.  But would we ever recommend feeding food with high bacterial loads?  Of course not!  Because that's just silly.  Our pets can deal with a lot, but why put additional stressors on the body?  This is where common sense comes into play.  If dogs evolved to handle massive amounts of cootie bugs that are normally found in the while, it stands to reason that the comparatively minor amounts of bacteria found in human-grade USDA approved meats are a completely moot point

That being said: The position of K9 Raw Diet is that it is up to each individual to make those decisions which s/he feels is right for one's pet.  Would we ever recommend feeding raw food to a seriously immune compromised dog?  No.  Some people would, and some vets would, but we don't.  Why?  Because pathogens, including bacteria, are opportunistic.  How much risk is too much?  Well, that's up to you.  As with all rearing decisions, one needs to weigh the risks versus benefits before an educated decision is made.

Q: I believe that BARF is a fad and will soon be dis-proven as an unhealthy way to feed a dog. It is unresearched and unscientific. What do you have to say about that?

A: Raw diets (also called BARF by some) have been around for as long as our canines and their ancestors have been in existence. Why must we provide scientific research for what should be common sense? That withstanding, Pottenger's study of 900 cats over a period of 10 years from 1932 to 1942 clearly demonstrated the effects of cooking food as compared to feeding a raw food diet. His results were astounding and absolutely back up the reasons so many people are feeding a raw diet today. In a nutshell, those cats who were fed raw foods were healthy, reproductively sound cats free from degenerative diseases. Those cats who were fed a home cooked diet (same foods but cooked instead of raw) were riddled with degenerative diseases while losing their reproductive capabilities. Plain and simple, if every dog and cat owner changed to a raw diet, the commercial pet food industry would go out of business overnight. It is clearly shown that today, and since the introduction of commercial foods some 60 years ago, our dogs are more ill than they have ever been while continuing to suffer from an ever increasing number of degenerative diseases. It is my opinion that this has occurred for two reasons: 1) The change in the dog’s diet as some degenerative diseases are the result of nutritional deficiencies over time in conjunction with the vast amount of poor quality nutrients that are used in commercial dog foods. If it is cooked, it is not what our dogs were designed to consume. 2) In Dr. Tom Lonsdale's book Raw Meaty Bones, a clear case is made for feeding whole carcasses while he discusses the effects of periodontal disease as a result from feeding soft diets. There is an analysis of periodontal disease being the root (no pun intended) cause of many degenerative diseases that plague our companion animals. Considering the systemic actions of anaerobic bacteria that live inside the gum line, it is very clear that feeding a diet that is not consistent with evolution will not provide the dog with a natural opportunity to keep his teeth and gums clear from oral pathogens.

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Q: What about grains? I notice that you don’t feed any grain in your diet. Are they okay to feed?

A: In general, grains are not a part of the natural diet to the wolf or the dog and they are not digestible in their raw form. How many wolves in the wild know how to set up a rice cooker? Why the commercial pet food industry has chosen to include grain as the bulk of the diet is truly beyond me but common sense tells us that it is simply a filler. In the wild, a dog will only eat that amount of pre-digested grain that is found in the intestines of a prey animal and in the grand scheme of things, this is an extremely minute amount of the dog’s overall diet. To simulate the prey animal in the kitchen, this would mean that only a very minute amount of over-soaked grain could be included in the diet. For simplification sake, because of the very low nutrient value of grain, because it is a very low quality protein and because grain is not a natural part of the dog's diet, I choose to omit grain from our diet. In addition, the chronic consumption of grains will lead to a condition known as hyperinsulinemia which has many far-reaching effects. As a side note, many dogs are hypersensitive to grains and I have personally found that when I did omit all grain from our diet that my dogs’ skin and ears greatly improved in a very short period of time.

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Q: What type of Organ should I feed and how often should I feed it?

A: About 10% or so of our overall diet is Organ. If you are feeding the Bravo Blends, the work is already done for you since each Bravo Blend contains its respective Organ (for example, the lamb blend contains lamb heart, lamb kidney and lamb liver) in biologically appropriate amounts. If you are feeding whole bones or Bravo products that do not contain Organ, you can either include the Bravo Organ Blends as approximately 10% of the overall diet or you can include whole pieces of Organ in as much variety as you are able to obtain. Just about any type of Organ is fine to feed but when you are choosing liver, try and choose liver from younger animals to minimise the amount of toxins that have accumulated. Unless you are feeding organic liver, try and make common sense choices. If you are living in an area that has been affected by BSE, you will also want to pay particular attention to the types of Organ you are feeding. And then there's tripe - I feed a meal of Bravo grass fed green tripe about once or twice a week. Is it Organ? Well, awful smelling, yes, but to be honest I'm not quite sure whether or not tripe is considered Organ. I tend to think not. At any rate, since many people consider Organ to be "bit parts" I did want to mention the use of green tripe as part of our own diet. It's a food product that drives my dogs nuts! They love the stuff! Definitely, Bravo's green tripe is by far my dogs' favourite food on the planet.

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Q: Is cottage cheese okay to feed?

A: Cottage cheese, in moderate amounts, is a totally fine food to feed. It contains easily digestible proteins and it's high in the branch chain amino acids. It's a wonderful protein source for those dogs who need to be on bland diet. The only time you would really want to be cautious about it is if your dog has a heart ailment or other ailments affected by dietary sodium as cottage cheese is a bit high in that respect.

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Q: Is there any raw food that I can't or shouldn't feed?

A: You can feed just about any raw food you can put your hands on - except onions! Depending on the specific animal, you will undoubtedly find foods that will be un-digestible to your dog no matter how you slice it – corn seems to pop into my mind at the moment. Other than that, if you choose to feed potatoes do make sure that any green portions are removed and my own point of view is that if you are going to include some potatoes, go ahead and cook them. An overabundance of nightshade vegetables should be avoided in the dog with degenerative joint diseases just as an overabundance of the cruciferous vegetables should be avoided in the dog with hypothyroidism. As far as bones are concerned, just about anything is fair game (pun intended) provided you refrain from providing the long weight-bearing bones of older animals as these tend to be harder, splinter more easily and are generally not used for the basis of a raw diet. As long as you are providing a variety of different foods, you will surely be supplying your dog with all the nutrients that his body needs. Remember, variety is the key to this diet.

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Q: I've been feeding raw for a few months now and I was just wondering if it's okay to give some cooked leftovers every now and again. Will that unbalance the diet?

A: Our dogs are both hunters and scavengers and as such, they are adept at eating a wide variety of foods. That being said, their bodies were designed for raw food and raw food only. Certainly, in the big scheme of things, feeding a little bit of cooked food here in completely kosher in the big scheme of things. So long as cooked foods comprise only a relatively small percentage of the diet, this is of negligible concern much in the same way that eating human junk food isn't a big deal if you only eat it on the rare occasion and the bulk of your diet is very healthy. Remember, the raw diet is balanced over time so when feeding some occasional cooked foods just keep the big picture in mind and you'll do just fine.

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Q: My dog absolutely refuses to eat bones! I really want him to eat this diet but I'm almost pulling my hair out over here. Can you help? Is there anything I can do?

A: The first thing you want to do is make sure there's no medical reason that your dog doesn't want to chew bones. It's possible that he has a bad tooth, it's possible that he has a problem with his gums and it's prudent to eliminate any medical reason that might impede your dog's desire to chew.

Barring any medical reasons, the vast majority of dogs take to a raw diet without any prodding at all. However, there are some dogs who can be a bit stubborn in this area. Not to worry! Lots of folks find success in this area by fasting their dog for 24 hours while providing only liquids afterwhich they introduce either raw bones or a pre-fabricated food such as Bravo. I will tell you honestly that for a dog who is having trouble adjusting to the idea of eating whole bones, using a food like Bravo makes this transition much easier because the food is more enticing to these dogs. This works on the theory that a hungry dog will eat anything. Many times, this method works very well.

In addition, you might simply try bringing the bones or Bravo food to body temperature. Place the bones into a baggie and place the baggie into a bowl of very warm water. Alternatively, simply take the chub of Bravo and place it into a bowl of very warm water. Allow it to sit there for 5 to 10 minutes and then try feeding it to your dog. Feed your food with confidence and make a really big deal out of the delicious treat that your dog is about to receive. This in itself can make all the difference in the world.

You can also try rubbing body temperature bones with tasty tidbits that your dog really enjoys. Try pouring a little tuna oil over the bone or try rubbing a clove of raw garlic over it. Some dogs go crazy for this technique.

Another way to entice your dog to eat bones is to sear them. Note: searing is not the same thing as cooking! When we sear the bone, we turn the pan up to high heat and sear for just a matter of seconds so that only the outer flesh is cooked but the inside remains totally raw. If your searing is done properly, the bone will still be cool enough to serve after only a few seconds of cooling time. This is an excellent way to get your dog to start eating raw bones. Begin by searing both sides of the bone, then graduate to searing only one side of the bone and finally graduate to the point where you can feed the bone without searing at all.

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Q: Which way is better to change my dog over to a raw food diet: gradual changeover or cold turkey?

A: Neither is better. Most dogs are just fine changing over cold turkey and really, this is my personal method of choice. The sooner your dog gets into the diet, the sooner he can complete his detox (if there is going to be one) and the sooner he will be on the road to good health. A healthy dog adapts just fine when we change him over cold turkey. That being said, for those dogs who are a bit older, for those dogs who suffer from health problems and for those dogs who have fragile bellies, changing over gradually is a better, and safer, idea. You can change over to an evolutionary diet over a period of 1-2 weeks by gradually incorporating raw foods into the diet your dog is currently eating. Perhaps you might want to feed the dog's regular food in the morning and feed a little raw food at night or you can also begin by introducing a small amount of raw food into his regular food while gradually increasing the amount of raw food. Over time, you can lessen the amount of the dog's regular food and increase the amount of raw food until that point where the dog is eating only raw foods. For dogs who are gradually easing into eating a raw diet, it makes sense to support digestion by using Berte's Zymes and Berte's Ultra Probiotics or by using Berte's Digestion Blend. The idea is to add additional digestive support through the time of transition and for a short period of time afterwards. After your dog has successfully transitioned into eating a raw diet and you are comfortable with what you're doing, you can then ease back on the digestive support and allow the dog's body to take over on his own. The only exception to this would be dogs who would need digestive support regardless of what diet he was eating (for example, dogs with IBD/IBS types of syndromes, dogs with other gastric disorders, dogs with pancreatic disorders, very elderly dogs, etc). If you need assistance in determining which products would be most appropriate for your particular dog during the transitional stage of eating raw food, please feel free to email me.

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Q: How do I know how much food my dog needs to eat?

A: I realise that in the beginning, it's a bit tricky to try and figure out just how much your dog needs to eat on a raw diet. Try to understand that when you're feeding an adult dog, your best gauge is going to be how your dog looks. Is he too heavy? Is he too thin? Is he gaining or losing weight? Think of it this way: how do you know how much food you need to eat? How do you know how much food your children need to eat? Be your own best judge and common sense will guide you in how much you need to feed your dog. As time marches on, you can always increase or decrease the amount of food you're feeding. A rough guideline is to feed approximately 2% of a dog's ideal body weight. Comparatively, and all things being equal, smaller adult dogs will eat a relatively higher percentage of their body weight while larger dogs will eat a relatively lower percentage of their body weight. Puppies will also eat comparatively more food than an adult dogs and the percentage could vary widely depending on the breed. As a guideline, start feeding your puppy anywhere between 4% and 8% of his ideal weight (not his adult weight but his current weight!) and assess his weight every couple of weeks. You can then adjust the amount up or down from that point onwards.

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Q: I notice that you don't mention ACV or bee pollen in your diet. Is there something wrong with feeding these kinds foods?

A: Absolutely not! Apple Cider Vinegar and bee pollen are both wonderful supplements. Apple Cider Vinegar, especially organic and unfiltered, is loaded with an abundance of minerals and enzymes. It's been credited with everything from decreasing inflammation to deterring fleas. Bee pollen also contains a host of wonderful nutrients. Why don't I feed them? Well, you have to draw the line somewhere. There are so many wonderful supplements that are available today and we can't possibly be expected to supply all of them to our dogs for practical purposes only. Every supplement programme is unique to the individual dog and it's a reflection of the dog owner's personal philosophy. Just as some people choose not to supplement at all, I choose to supplement with those items that I feel are most beneficial to my particular dogs. If you feel that ACV and bee pollen will benefit your dog, by all means, provide them with confidence in knowing you're doing what you feel is best for your companion animals. That is what this whole diet is about.

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Q: I'm confused. Some people are telling me to take the skin off of my chicken and others are telling me it's okay to give to my dogs. Please help!

A: Like everything else in the raw diet, moderation and common sense is the key. If your dog is active, healthy and at his proper weight, then leaving most of the skin on the chicken is just fine. If your dog is less active or a little overweight, then it would probably suit him best if you could remove some of the skin. Certainly, removing the skin is easier on some chicken pieces than others and I could not imagine trying to remove all the skin off of chicken wing. However, taking the skin off of chicken necks and backs is pretty easy business. If you are using Bravo products, please note that some products are skinless and some are not. They have done all the work for you! Just use your common sense here by not feeding an abundance of chicken skin in relation to the overall diet.

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Q: My Chow suffers from hypothyroidism. I want to feed a BARF diet but was just wondering if I should do anything differently.

A: Unfortunately, our Chows are predisposed to hypothyroidism. So are a lot of breeds.  Some years ago, two of my own Chows were diagnosed with the disease and they were put onto thyroxine supplementation. Changing over to a raw diet and feeding of a good amount of natural sources of iodine, selenium and manganese rich foods, I was able to remove both of them from their thyroxine supplementation in addition to keeping their thyroid hormone levels within normal limits. Just because our dogs are predisposed to the disease does not mean that there isn't anything we can do to help. Under the guidance of your pro-raw diet veterinarian, you will need to start feeding foods that are rich in iodine, selenium and manganese and you should probably also avoid all the cruciferous vegetables.

However, please be aware that while we had great results in this area, there are going to be many occasions where the only thing you can do is supplement with either T4 or T3 + T4 and this is why it is so important to treat hypothyroidism under the care of a qualifed veterinarian.  K9 Raw Diet recommends Jean Dodds, DVM.  For more information, please see her Hemopet website.

A very good supplement to use would be one of the green blends such as Berte's Green Blend or Animal Essentials Organic Green Alternative as both contain tonnes of micronutrients that help support the thyroid gland. In addition, you should also join some of the wonderful disease related lists that can be found at Yahoogroups.

There are many natural ways in which we can support the thyroid from homeopathy to diet to supplements to acupuncture to chiropractic to herbs - and the list goes on. I will say that in order to properly diagnose hypothyroidism, a full thyroid panel is a must. This will give your vet all the information she needs in order to accurately assess the action of the thyroid in addition to determining whether or not auto-immune thyroiditis is a concern. For more information on hypothyroidism, please see Mary Straus' page.

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Q: Some people are telling me that I need to give my Chow sardines for the iodine content but aren't the sardines in a can cooked? Should I be feeding these to my Chows?

A: No doubt, our Chows do need iodine in their diet and sardines are a nice source. I can imagine you're being told this information based on the fact that our Chows are genetically predisposed to hypothyroidism and therefore it makes prudent sense to make sure we support the thyroid as best we can. Buyer beware: too much iodine in the diet can *hinder* the production of thyroid hormone so you would want to be cautious with regards to providing too much iodine supplementation. To be safe, I would suggest that you either keep the sardines to a modest amount and/or provide one of the green blends such as Berte's Green Blend or Animal Essentials Organic Green Alternative as both contain tonnes of micronutrients that help support the thyroid gland.

It really is okay to feed tinned sardines just as it is okay to feed the occasional bits of other cooked foods and yes, the sardines that come in the tin are cooked. More than that, my concern comes from the high salt content of canned sardines. It's my belief that the salt can cause more of a problem than a small amount of cooked foods and this is especially true for those dogs and Chows that suffer from heart conditions. If your Chow does not have a heart ailment or other ailment requiring the monitoring of sodium and you would like to feed canned sardines, that is fine so long as you are only feeding moderate amounts. Certainly, there are an abundance of other raw foods that are high in their iodine content including kelp, egg yolks, turnip greens (but not the turnips), marine fish, Swiss chard, pears, pineapples and vegetables that have been grown in iodine-rich soil. But here's an idea - why not feed fresh raw sardines instead?

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Q: I have a new Sharpei puppy arriving soon and I don't know what I should do differently. I've been feeding a whole bone based BARF diet for six months now but I'm a little confused as to what I should do with my new puppy. It's been a long time since I've had a puppy in the house.

A: I love this question. The answer is this: you already know exactly what to do. You've been successfully feeding a raw diet for six months so you are more than equipped to start feeding your new puppy when he arrives in your home. You don't state the age of your puppy but I'm going to assume that this puppy has been properly weaned. Regardless of whether or not your new puppy has been weaned on a raw diet, all you need to do is feed those same foods you are providing to your other dogs, only in smaller quantities. It really is that simple. If the puppy is very young, you might want to stick to chicken wings and necks at first because they're a little easier for the puppy to chew. As your puppy grows, you can then begin introducing chicken backs, lamb breast and other appropriate bones. Continue feeding the same types of foods and in the same ratios that you are providing your adult dogs, just use smaller quantities. Remember that raw fed puppies will grow more slowly than kibble fed dogs so don't be surprised if his non-raw fed littermates seem to be growing a little more quickly than your newest addition.

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Q: My dog is 10 years old. Do I need to do anything different for senior citizens?

A: Personally, I do not automatically consider a 10 year old a senior dog. While some dogs might seem "old" at 10, others are not. All the 'senior' dogs who have been in my life were active, healthy and mature adults being full of energy and vitality. As such, I fed them the same way that I would feed a two year old. In the wild a dog will still eat raw meat and raw bones in the same proportions as a younger dog. Contrary to how many folks say about decreasing the percentage of protein in the senior dog, I think that nature tells the story best when she allows us to realise that senior dogs in the wild will not suddenly begin consuming massive amounts of vegetable matter and lower amounts of raw meaty bones. Use common sense. Watch your senior's weight, observe his activity level and adjust his meals accordingly just as you would a younger dog. In addition, you want to make sure that you are adding lots of anti-oxidants to the diet to help slow down the ageing process, make sure you're including a fair amount of a really good quality fish oil and if appropriate, you might also want to add a good digestive enzyme since older dogs naturally tend to produce fewer digestive enzymes than do younger dogs. Respectively, my favourite supplements for my seniors include Berte's Daily Blend which is loaded with anti-oxidants, Bravo's Wild Norwegian Salmon Oil (liquid) or Animal Essentials Essential Fatty Acids (encapsulated), and either Berte's Zyme or Berte's Digestion Blend. It's only when a senior dog develops particular medical concerns that I'll tailor the diet to best meet those concerns.

As an aside, I cannot over-emphasise the need for continuing well patient visits with your veterinarian. My dogs all visit our holistic vet once a year as a matter of routine. I think I take pretty good care of my own dogs but I am a lay person and I do not have the same eyes as my veterinarian. I enjoy the comfort of a veterinarian looking over my shoulder, looking into my dogs' mouths, listening to their hearts, and basically getting the once over. When my dogs are around 7 or so, I begin asking for a complete blood count and chemistry panel every year. I follow the numbers closely, I look for any trends that might be developing within the normal ranges and I use this time to make any adjustment in diet if need be. There are many silent diseases out there and as a responsible pet owner, I want to be proactive about detecting them before any symptoms present themselves. Blood tests are a very easy way to do some basic organ screenings. Then, when my dogs get into their senior years (for my Chows this is around age 10 or 11 since my dogs happen to live extremely long lives), we run a geriatric panel every 6 months. My personal preference is to err on the side of caution.

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Q: I just found out that my dog has moderate kidney disease. I'm so sad about this and I want to do what's best for her. Isn't BARF too high in protein to feed a dog with kidney disease?

A: Do not despair! Kidney disease is not the end of the world and there is a lot you can do if you start now. Our goal here is to prevent further degeneration of the kidneys and you can do that with an evolutionary diet. The very best thing you can do for your dog is to put her on a raw food diet and I urge you to do so immediately. In kidney disease, the most important limiting factor becomes the quality of the protein fed. Only a very high quality and very easily digestible protein should be used in these dogs.

The best source of comprehensive information on kidney disease can be found on Mary Straus' website.

That being said, what is most important is that your vet accurately assesses the cause of the kidney disease. The kidneys are complicated organs and depending on exactly what's going on with your dog, you may need a highly specialised diet and for that reason I would urge you to work with your pro-raw diet veterinarian to devise a diet that is most suitable for your individual dog. In addition, you will definitely benefit from joining one of the kidney disease related e-groups which can be located at Yahoogroups. My favourite kidney list is the k9 kidney diet list that's run by Lew Olson.

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Q: Can dogs being fed a BARF diet experience bloat?

A: Any dog can bloat but it is my opinion that dogs fed a raw diet are less likely to bloat than are dogs fed a commercial diet. I say this because out of the thousands and thousands of dogs in which I've come in contact over the years (both commercially fed and raw fed), the only dogs I've known who've ever bloated have been commercially fed. I have personally never known a raw fed dog who has bloated. I'm not saying it can't happen, but I myself have never seen it nor heard of it. Because raw foods are very high in water content and do not expand in the stomach, gas is not produced and will not swell as happens so often in bloat cases. In addition, because raw foods are digested so much more quickly than cooked foods, that raw food is in the stomach for a much smaller amount of time. This too helps decrease the chances of bloat. However, feeding a raw diet is not an insurance policy against bloat. Lonsdale states in his book, Raw Meaty Bones, that the feeding of starchy foods is also a contributing factor to bloat. In my opinion, feeding a raw diet, feeding smaller but more frequent meals, ensuring that your dog does not experience heavy exercise after a meal and keeping stress to a minimum will all help in minimising the chances of bloat and really, that's the best we can do.

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Q: I think these bones are making my dog constipated. Will she eventually get used to this or do you think we need to go to the vet?

A: If your dog is new to an evolutionary diet, his body may need time to adjust. Bear in mind that there is a big difference between constipation and a little straining. Straining a tiny bit is totally normal with a raw diet and actually of great benefit as it helps our dogs naturally empty their anal glands. That being said, if your dog is not in pain and is eliminating on a schedule that is normal for him, then this is probably very normal. If your dog is having a lot of trouble straining, they my suggestions would be to 1) feed less bone, 2) feed some more muscle meat, vegetables, Bravo boneless or Bravo Organ blends to get things moving along, 3) start adding more oil to the diet. If you are feeding biologically appropriate amounts of meat, bone and Organ as are found in the Bravo blends, there generally is not a problem with constipation so it might be prudent to go back and readdress the ratios of components that you are currently feeding. If you need assistance in doing so, please feel free to email me and I'll help you take a look at your diet.

If your dog is impacted and cannot eliminate, then you need to take him to a vet. In the vast majority of cases, all that is needed is an enema. Remember, there is no one right way to feed a raw diet and in most cases, all that is needed is a little fine tune adjusting.

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Q: My dog has been on a BARF diet for 2 weeks and her stools are really gross! There's lots of mucous and they're pretty runny. My dog is 4 years old and this has never happened before. Is this normal? Is this going to go away? Should I give her Pepto Bismol or something?

A: This sounds similar to the detox that a couple of my own dogs went through when I first changed to a raw diet but only your veterinarian can provide an accurate diagnosis. When in doubt, visit the vet! Detox is a situation where our dogs are getting rid of all the garbage and toxins that have built up in their system over a period of time. When we begin feeding good quality and appropriate foods to our dogs, their bodies can go into detox mode where the toxins need to be eliminated somehow. It is very common to see mucousy stools during a detox situation just as it's common to see some skin issues and ear issues during that same period of time. Remember, toxins have to exit the body somehow. After all, isn't it better that those toxins are out of your dog and in the stool? In the interim, you can help your dog by adding some probiotics (the good bacteria that naturally live in the gut), some digestive enzymes (which will help him get the most out of his food) and a bit of slippery elm (which is very soothing to the gut) and/or some l-gutamine. Supplements such as Berte's Zymes, Berte's Ultra Probiotics and Berte's Digestion Blend are extremely valuable to the dog who is going through the transitional period of feeding a raw diet. However, again, I do have to emphasise the fact that only your veterinarian can properly assess your dog's symptoms. For this reason, I would strongly encourage you to visit a holistic veterinarian who is very familiar with feeding a raw diet.

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Q: You aren't going to believe this but I've been giving my Chow the BARF diet for a few weeks now and her skin problems are WORSE! Why isn't this working for me?

A: I believe it! Again, this sounds like classic detox. The diet is working for you! It's helping rid your dog of all the toxins that have accumulated in his system over the years. Since Chows are notorious for skin problems, it's no surprise that we commonly see detoxification occur through the skin as it is often the weakest link in the chain. I realise it's an uncomfortable thing to watch, but the best thing you can do is let this run its course by allowing those toxins to escape from the body. In the meantime, add Berte's Ultra Probiotics and Berte's Zymes to help restore the natural bacteria that normally live in the gut, to assist him with digestion and to help him get the most out of his diet.

Whether the coat is greasy or dry, I recommend using Pure Pet Pure Care Shampoo (and conditioner if necessary). This is the only shampoo I use on all my dogs. The formulation is entirely botanical, it is appropriate for all coat types, it's extremely gentle and very soothing to the skin. Because it's botanical, you don't have to worry about getting every drop of shampoo out of the fur. This stuff is safe, effective and it smells heavenly, like rosemary (the conditioner smells like clover). In both cases, work the shampoo all the way down to the skin and allow it to remain there for a good ten minutes before rinsing very thoroughly - this allows the botanical ingredients to do their job.

However, please note that even though detox is normal that does not preclude a visit to the vet. My own tendency is to monitor the situation, address passing symptoms at home and if they do not seem to clear up on their own *or* if they get worse, then off to the vet we go. Visiting the vet does not mean that my dogs are going to receive un-necessary treatment. For us, it's simply a case of due diligence.

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Q: How long does detox last?

A: The detoxification process is as individual as the dog himself. With some dogs, we do not see any physical signs of detox whatsoever. In other dogs, detoxification can be pretty frightening. Detox itself can run from several days to several months or more with the vast majority of dogs completing their detoxification process within a matter of weeks. Please note that while detox can very real when switching a dog over to raw foods, we can and should continue with other detox protocols throughout a dog's life. This might include the use of homeopathy, nutritional supplements and herbal support depending on your dog's individual needs. For more information, I would strongly suggest everyone to visit a homotoxicologist on a regular basis. Our personal homotoxicologist is Dr. Richard Palmquist - he has literally saved the life of my dogs and has added to their quality of life in ways that are truly immeasurable. In order for a dog (or person's) body to be able to function properly in the manner in which it was designed, each cell needs to be free and clear from toxins so from a logical point of view, it only makes sense to maintain the integrity of the cells of the body as best we can and of course this is an ongoing process considering the toxic environment that exists today.

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Q: We just started feeding a raw diet and my dog has pieces of bone in his stools! Am I doing something wrong? Help!

A: Obviously you are feeding whole bone and no you are not doing anything wrong. Remember that it takes time for some dogs to adapt to a raw food diet. There are some dogs who have a stomach of steel and can make the switch overnight and without any problems at all. Other dogs simply need a little more time to adjust. Remember, nature designed our dogs to eat a diet comprised of raw bones. Adding Berte's Zymes can really help a lot here because until your dog is actively producing all the enzymes he needs in order to digest the raw bone, supplementation with enzymes can help him bridge the gap. Provide Berte's Zymes with his meals and continue doing so for at least a couple of weeks. When you are confident that your dog is digesting his bones, you can then slowly wean him off of the digestive enzymes so that his body can take over the job. Alternatively, you can simply switch to using one of Bravo's ground bone products (Bravo basics or Bravo blends) which will greatly assist in the transition to a raw food diet. Ground bones are much easier to digest than whole bones which makes a big difference for those dogs who are having a little more difficulty switching to raw. After you have made the switch, you can then being to slowly introduce whole, soft bones (such as poultry bones) and assess the progress of your dog. Remember, this isn't a race - does it really matter if it takes a day or a month to transition our dogs to the type of raw diet we ultimately desire him to eat?

There are many people who shrug off the notion of dogs passing whole bone in their stools. While I'm quite positive that this does not constitute a problem in the vast majority of dogs, I like to do things safely. More than anything, I believe that the comfort level of the owner is just as important as safety issues for the dog and with that in mind, whenever I do hear that a dog is passing bone in his stool I think that is a symptom not to be ignored. From my point of view, it's just not acceptable for my dogs to excrete bone shards. There are safer ways to approach raw feeding.

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Q: My dog has been suffering from really bad gas in addition to chronic anal gland impaction. Will feeding raw bones help or hurt this condition?

A: Unless your dog suffers from a physiological problem as diagnosed from your veterinarian, feeding an evolutionary diet is the best thing you can do for these dogs. No dog should suffer from flatulence. When a dog is experiencing flatulence, it is a sure sign that his food is not being digested properly and that it's literally fermenting in his gut. As it ferments, noxious gas is produced. By feeding a raw food diet, you can ensure that your dog is eating the food his body was designed to digest. Be aware of what you're feeding and try to take note to assess whether or not your dog is experiencing difficulty in digesting certain types of food (for example, fattier cuts of meat or a particular protein source). As far as the anal gland impaction is concerned, personally I would visit a vet to ensure that infection is not present. If it is not, then I would see if this condition resolves itself through the feeding of a raw diet. A diet that has moderate levels of bone will cause a harder stool to form and during elimination, the anal glands are emptied naturally. This is definitely a far better solution than taking on this task yourself!

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Q: If I decide to feed raw bones, isn't there a chance that my dog could choke?

A: Yes there is. There is also a chance that your dog could choke on kibble, pieces of his toys, rawhide and anything else that goes inside his mouth. Of course, the risk is there; however, it's my strong belief that the benefits of feeding raw bones far outweigh the risks. I've been feeding raw bones for 9+ years now and never have any of my dogs choked on a raw bone. I think one of the keys here is to make sure you're feeding appropriately sized bones. Feed bones that cannot be swallowed whole and bones that your dog isn't going to inhale in one gulp. That being said, all owners should be familiar with first-aid procedures when it comes to choking regardless of whatever diet you are feeding. A good explanation can be found at: http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=346&S=1&SourceID=20.

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Q: Do you have any idea where I can purchase a grinder for my bones?

A: The Maverick is one of my favourite kitchen gadgets. It can be purchased directly from Pierce Equipment. In addition, many people have had very good success using Northern Tool.

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Q: Where do you purchase your supplements?

A: I now carry all the supplements I personally use. My philosphy at K9 Raw Diet is to carry only the highest quality food and supplements that are available on the market today. These are the products that I choose for my own dogs and these are the products that I feel good about delivering to my clients. I want only the very best and by definition, there is only one "very best" product in each category.

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Q: What about cats? As obligate carnivores, shouldn't they be eating a raw diet too?

A: Absolutely they should! Bravo food is for dogs AND cats! It's biologically appropriate food for carnivores! I am currently in the process of developing a site dedicated to cats but for now, there is some wonderful information on feeding your cat a raw diet at Feline Future. In addition, there are several e-mail lists that are solely dedicated to feeding your cat an evolutionary diet. You can find them at Yahoogroups.

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Q: My vet doesn't believe in feeding a raw diet and he thinks I'm nuts and I'm going to hurt my dog. How should I handle this?

A: Don't worry, you are definitely not alone here. Try to understand that as good as our veterinarians are intentioned when it comes to helping our pets, their nutritional education is minimal, at best, in addition to being sponsored by the commercial pet food industry. It's no wonder that the veterinarians come out of school today recommending commercial foods. Plain and simple, they just haven't been taught any differently.

All of us have the opportunity to learn what foods are most nutritious for our pets. Your own path has led you to the road of raw feeding and that's because you've taken the time and energy to do the research. Why not provide your vet with that same research which you have read? Why not print out some of the studies from the numerous internet websites, let your vet borrow some of your books on raw feeding and then give him or her some time to digest the material? You might just be surprised. Even in the commercial pet food industry, there is a fast growing movement towards cleaner and more healthy ingredients. While cooked food is still inappropriate food, this movement does show that there is a need for better nutrition for our dogs and that feeding our dogs garbage is definitely not okay.

When all else fails, it's probably easiest if you agree to disagree. I feel our vets of today are incredible people. They have dedicated their lives to helping our beloved companion animals and in my book, that counts for a whole lot of brownie points. At the end of the day, it's you who will be feeding your animals and only you know what's best for them. Follow your conscience and follow your beliefs. Share in your knowledge and allow your vet the opportunity to explore this path.

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Q: Just out of curiosity, what do you use for flea control?

A: I don't. I have never had the need to use flea prevention despite living in some very heavily infested areas. It's my belief that parasites are only attracted to less-healthy animals and if your dog is living at his full potential for health, fleas will generally not be attracted towards him. Does that mean that healthy dogs can never get fleas? Of course not. I simply believe that given the choice, fleas will choose the less healthy dog over the more healthy dog. For natural environmental control, nematodes and diatomaceous earth are wonderful and if you absolutely must use flea control on your dog, then do discuss this with your veterinarian.

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Q: Have you seen that My Blue Dog Site? Now I don't know what to believe. What do you think about it?

A: This site has been round and round the internet many times under several different names. It contains grossly unsubstantiated information and in my opinion, it's a scare tactic to get folks to stop feeding raw foods and start feeding the food for which the author is a distributor. Coincidence? I think not. That being said, Dr. Billinghurst has given a rebuttal which is far better than any I could ever provide. Please see Billinghurst's rebuttal to this site which has been generously posted by Bill Camp's Famous Flying Dogs.

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